How To Shoot Sports

There are only a couple of pieces of general advice to getting good sports photos, since every sport is so different from the others. I'll get to several individual sports later. Still, they all demand a camera with good continuous autofocus, whatever that's called by your camera: AF-C by Sony & Nikon, AI Servo on a Canon. Also, you need to go into your Menu or Autofocus Custom Functions(Canon) to set: Tracking Sensitivity, AF point auto switching (how quickly it switches from the current AF point to another moving point), "Release" or "Focus" priority, Second Image Priority, etc. RTFM!

Then, of course, there's your "AF Area", what part of the screen it concentrates focusing on. On my Canon 6DMkII there's 5 choices: Spot AF, Manual Select: Single Point, Manual Select: Zone AF, Manual Select: Large Zone AF, Auto Selection AF. I typically use Manual Select: Zone AF and select the middle group of points, assuming my target should end up in the middle. Your camera may have different choices, but you need to understand them! Check your David Busch book or camera manual (if that's all you have) for the descriptions and how to set them to your liking before the big game.

Of course you need a good, fast lens, to capture as much light as you can inside dark gyms (all gyms are dark!) or outside under Friday Night Lights. The "Go To" lens for sports shooters is the 70-200MM f/2.8 lens. All the major lens manufacturers make a model, but they are pricey! The Sony version is $2500, and the others aren't far behind. Fortunately, 3rd party lends makers like Tamron and Sigma have stepped up their game and make great 70-200s for much less. I recently got the Tamron 70-200MM f/2.8 (for Canon) for $1200, a savings of $800 over the Canon version, and it's every bit as good! I use it sometimes on my Sony A7RII with my Metabones adapter, and the autofocus is great!

Mostly you will be using Shutter Priority, so you can set the shutter speed fast enough to freeze the action, from 1/500 second for slower sports like golf and bowling, to 1/2000 for football, volleyball and basketball. With wrestling and swimming somewhere in between. Of course, your ISO may go way up on recent cameras, up to ISO 12,800, and still get a reasonably good exposure (but you may need to crank up the Noise Reduction slider in Lightroom). You can use Manual to deliberately under expose in very low light, but watch your meter to make sure it's not more than about -2 stops underexposed, otherwise it will be difficult to recapture the shadow detail!

Football: Follow the ball, that's where the action is! Stand on the sideline about 10-20 yards behind the line of scrimmage. This keeps the offense facing you and the players running towards you. When the offense is close to a touchdown, stand behind the end zone for a close, dynamic shot of the touchdown. Stand with your home team stands behind you, and the band and cheerleaders will be facing you for their performance. Also get shots of the coaches, benches, halftime shows, fans, etc.

Baseball/Softball: Most of the action takes place on the infield. The pitcher on the mound, swinging at home plate, runners at bases, coaches, and fans. Standing between home and first base will be the best place for capturing the faces of right-handed batters and pitchers, the plays at first and second base, and home plate. Stand between home and third base for leftie batters, or action at third. If allowed, stand behind the backstop for shots of the pitcher throwing.

Basketball: Follow the ball, that's where the action is! Standing under the basket of your team provides the best angle for action shots. The corners are also good for capturing drives to the basket. Stand at center court to get the tipoff. Never stand in front of the team benches or scorekeeper table. Capture coaches watching from the sidelines and discussing plays with the bench.

Field Sports (Soccer, Lacrosse, Field Hockey, Track) : Follow the ball or runner, that's where the action is! Running, passing, benches, the usual. Stand on the sideline near the middle of the field with the sun to your back prevents lens flare and backlighting. While it may be good to move up and down some, don't try to chase the action, you won't make it. Zoom in to get the shot, including facial reactions.

Wrestling: Follow the action from a corner or side of the mat, at a low angle, as they will be on the mat most of the time. Face the referee at the start, and look for both faces to be in the shot.

Volleyball: Follow the action from the center, getting the spiker, blockers and ball over top of the net. Also look for the server jumping, digs, great saves, etc. Stand pn the sidelines close to the net, or behind the team benches.

Tennis: Follow the action from the corners, or middle if you can be on the next court over. Stand across the net from the player you are photographing to always see their face.

Swimming/Diving: If you can stand next to the pool, do so! Shoot the start of races from the side opposite the referee, and the turnarounds and relay races from behind the starting platforms. Make sure your autofocus point is ON the diver, not on the background (an easy mistake!)

Sports photography, whether it's your family member on the court, or you are getting paid to get the shot, is a challenge for the photographer, and a treasure for the athletes who get a memory of their competition. Enjoy!